Sweetening The Pot
Making Maple Sugar
One of the most important domestic duteis in Canada throughout the pioneering days and well into the Victorian Era and beyond, was the manufacture of  maple sugar.  Most farmers had a sugar-bush and a few weeks every spring were spent in sugar-making.

The art of making maple sugar, was taught to the immigrants by the Natives, more than four centuries ago.  In the early 1600's the Jesuit Relations describe the event:  "
a certain liquor that runs from the trees toward the end of Winter, and which is known as 'Maple Water' ..."When they (the Indians) are pressed by famine they eat the shavings or bark of a certain tree, which they call Micktan, which they split in the Spring to get from it a juice, sweet as honey or as sugar. I have been told this by several, but they do not enjoy much of it, so scanty is the flow." This of course describes the actual sap. 

Further on in the Relations:  "There is no lack of sugar in these forests. In the Spring the maple trees contain a fluid somewhat resembling that which the canes of the islands contain. The women busy themselves in receiving it into vessels of bark when it trickles from these trees; they boil it, and obtain from it a fairly good sugar. The first which is obtained is always the best."

The process of sugar-making at that time was rather crude.  The Native would first gash the tree in a slanting direction, and then insert a wooden chip to act as a spout, catching the sap as it trickled out. It would then be boiled by dropping hot-rocks into the vessel and continually boiled down by replacing the rocks as they cooled.  The sugar would be eaten on it's own, especially when a little pick-me-up was needed.

An entry in Mrs. Simcoe's Diary for April 3, 1798, states:  "
Some Indians brought maple sugar to sell in birch bark baskets.  I gave them three dollars for 30 pounds."  It's manufature was done by the women and they even made the fancy little baskets in which they were sold. 
Six Years in the Bush
Thomas Need 1835
"As soon as the sap begins to rise, which is early in April, the squaws betake themselves in families, or select parties, to the Maple Groves, or Sugar Bushes, as they are called; there they erect a camp, and prepare troughs and firewood, and collect all the kettles they can borrow or hire in the neighbourhood; this done, they begin to tap the trees with a tomahawk, inserting a tube in each incision to receive the sap and conduct it into troughs underneath: each family or firm has its own bush, consisting generally of three or four hundred trees; these are visited in turn by two or more of the younger ladies, whose office it is to collect the sap and bring it to the fire.

"The most experienced among them is there placed to regulate the heat, which ought to be tolerably equal, and round her the rest of the party are busied in watching the process of boiling, and arranging the contents of the kettles; and finally, when by steady boiling the consistency of sugar is obtained, in delivering it over to others whose business it is to keep stirring the boiling mass as it gradually cools and settles. ...There were several women and girls busily employed, while their lords' and masters, as usual, were idling about or carelessly looking on. It is, however, but fair to state, that, as they do not assist in the labour, so neither do they share in the profits, which are sometimes considerable, and may always be looked upon as pretty pin-money for the ladies of the bush. ...

"After the season was over, the party brought me a present of ten or twelve pounds of excellent sugar in return for the loan of my kettles."
Henry Schoolcraft writes in his The Indian Tribes, 1851-56;  that the manuafacture of maple sugar was   "a sort of Indian carnival. The article is profusely eaten by all of every age, and a quantity is put up for sale in a species of boxes made from the white birch bark, which are called mococks or mokuk"". ...The boxes designed for sale are of all sizes; from twenty to seventy pounds weight. They are sold to merchants at six cents per pound, payable in merchandise. The number made in a single season by an industrious and strong-handed family is known to be from thirty to forty, in addition to all the sugar that has been consumed."
Later European immigrants did little to alter the process taught them by their hosts.  In early spring, the sugar-bush would be cleared of all underbrush and the area fenced off to keep the cattle clear. 
 
A central location was chosen where an ox-sled could be easily brought in, and a hollowed-out half-log, served as a trough, which could usually hold up to 100 buckets of sap.  A hole was made in the tree with an auger, into which a round, wooden spout, known as a tap, spile or spigot, was inserted.  An axe could make a wider gash and produce a better flow, but this was hard on the trees so not usually done.
The sap ran better on warm days, after frosty nights, and experience taught that the tap should be placed on the south side of the tree in the early part of the season, and on the north side near the close.  Iron or copper kettles were used to boil the sap, and care had to be taken to keep the fires burning day and night. When the sap had been boiled down to a thin molasses or syrup it was poured into a deep wooden vessel, where it was allowed to settle.

From there it was poured into a copper boiler and clarified with milk and eggs. Six eggs beaten with about a quart of syrup and poured into the sugar-boiler would clarify fifty pounds of sugar. After the mixture was well stirred the boiler was hung on a crane over a slow fire, and when the liquid began to simmer, the beaten eggs and the impurities would rise to the surface.
The surface would be carefully skimmed until a clear syrup remained and this would then have to be further boiled down to make sugar.  To test, a little drop was put in the snow and if it hardened immediately, the sugar was ready to be poured into pans and moulds to set.
The Maple Tree:  A Canadian Song
Susanna Moodie
When the snows of winter are melting fast,
And the sap begins to rise,
And the biting breath of the frozen blast
Yields to the Spring's soft sighs,
Then away to the wood,
For the maple, good, 
   

Shall unlock its honied store;
And boys and girls,
With their sunny curls,
Bring their vessels brimming o'er
With the luscious flood
Of the brave tree's blood,
Into cauldrons deep to pour.

The blaze from the sugar-bush gleams red;
Far down in the forest dark,
A ruddy glow on the tree is shed,
That lights up the rugged bark;
And with merry shout,
The busy rout


Watch the sap as it bubbles high;
And they talk of the cheer
Of the coming year,
And the jest and the song pass by;
And brave tales of old
Round the fire are told,
That kindle youth's beaming eye.
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